Several years ago I purchased an Amaryllis bulb and forced it indoors. It bloomed beautifully, and was a great inspiration to me. The following year when Amaryllis time came again I couldn’t remember who I’d gotten the bulb from nor when I started forcing it. It was then that I decided to keep a garden journal.
There are many tools in gardening, shovels, hoes, rakes; think of your garden journal as another great gardening tool. Gardening is about 80% experience and 20% luck; if you record your experiences from year-to-year you can hedge your bets. Recording your successes and failures and recognizing what happened will make you a better gardener.
My garden journal is a composition notebook. Use whatever makes sense to you, a sketchbook or scrapbook etc. Then just record the things that are important to you. You can put whatever emphasis on it. If you’re interesting in wildlife you can record the weather and animal sightings. If you’re interested in budgeting you can record your costs and what the garden produced. If you’re interested in art then you can paint or draw whatever plants strike your fancy. The possibilities are limitless.
I personally like to strike a balance between artistic and functional. I enjoy drawing and making watercolors. The more scientific side of me likes to take notes on weather, and wildlife. I find that a limited time for writing keeps me on track. I usually write before work or after I’ve come in from the garden, while things are fresh in my mind. However, I have also been known to spend hours on it during lazy Saturday mornings. Dedicate as much time as you deem necessary, and remember that the more information you provide yourself the more knowledge you’ll gain about what works for your garden.
With gardening it helps to note the details, like where you planted those tulips bulbs or when you fertilized your tomatoes. What makes a garden journal a tool is noting the details and then reading through your journal every now and again. Those details can come together and perhaps help you realize trends in your garden. For example, let’s say you try a new variety of cucumber and it yields more than other varieties you’ve tried in the past. This is when your journal becomes a tool - noting that difference and recognizing it will make your garden more productive the following year as you choose varieties that are better suited to your unique site. If nothing else your garden journal is a book dedicated to your garden, your own personal guide tailored to your exact location. On a more practical note, it immensely helpful to have all the information about your garden in one place, so when you’re planning crop rotation or picking a variety of pepper you don’t have to turn the house upside-down to find your notes from last year, they’re all in one place.
On cold winter days when the rain is beating the house, there are few better feelings then opening up your garden journal and reading a section from June, recalling the warmth and bounty of the season.
Tips for Garden Journaling:
1) Note when you started seeds and when you transplanted them into the ground.
2) Note the varieties of plants that work best in your garden.
3) Note what works and what doesn’t so you can stream-line processes in the future.
4) Taking notes on the weather conditions can be immensely helpful for finding trends. Plants have specific responses to temperature, moisture, and sunlight – the better you understand those responses the better garden you will become.
5) Personalize it – a garden journal is an expression of you and your garden. Take pictures of your champion pumpkin, or stunning flower bed. Take pride in your garden and the work you put into it.
6) If something dies record the cause, so that in the future you can avoid that problem.
7) Keep invoices from seed orders and other itemized receipts in your garden journal. This is a record not only of the money spent it is also a record of the varieties used in the past, even if you didn’t have time to note them. Instead of keeping hundreds of seed packets keep one seed invoice.
Thursday, February 3, 2011
Thursday, January 6, 2011
Seedy Business
This time of year there is a flurry of activity in every gardener’s mailbox – seed season is upon us. Every good garden begins with good seeds. Seeds can be purchased virtually anywhere in our day and age. Mail order catalogs (and their respective websites) are far superior to the vast majority of seeds available in stores. Most catalogs offer a much larger and more unique variety, putting more control in to your hands and thus allowing a higher potential for success. Choosing seeds can be a bit overwhelming. However, the following tips should help to focus your efforts:
1) Space & Spacing –Get an idea of the rough square footage and layout of the garden. Draw a sketch of the garden and decide how much space is going to be dedicated to various types of crops (tomtatoes, corn etc.).
Once the space is laid-out for each crop do a little research into the space required per plant of that crop (e.g. 24 inches between individual corn plants) - knowing how to space crops will ensure that appropriate amount of seed is purchased.
1)History – It is a good idea to keep a garden journal to record broad seasonal trends. If there are any records from the past look back at them and see what varieties were used and what were the successes and failures. This can save a lot of time and money if a specific crop or variety consistently does or does not perform in the garden.
2)Know Thy Self – For many years I grew peppers. They grew beautifully and I would harvest them and never use them. It was only after several years and I decided that I didn’t actually like peppers and stopped growing them. Grow only things that you KNOW you will use. If you only use three peppers a year it is cheaper to buy them from the grocery store.
3)Seeds v. Transplants – If you have a large garden or a crop that can be sown multiple times (greens or onions for example) it is more economical to buy seeds. If you have a small garden or only require several individual plants (for example tomatoes, peppers), transplants may be a better option. Dividing up which plants will be purchased as seed and which will be purchased as transplants will help keep costs down and streamline the gardening process.
4)Have Fun! – This might sound trite however a garden should be fun. A personal rule I have is to try something new every year – a new vegetable, a new flower, a new variety. Something new and fresh to keep me interested and engaged; it has lead to some great discoveries.
1) Space & Spacing –Get an idea of the rough square footage and layout of the garden. Draw a sketch of the garden and decide how much space is going to be dedicated to various types of crops (tomtatoes, corn etc.).
Once the space is laid-out for each crop do a little research into the space required per plant of that crop (e.g. 24 inches between individual corn plants) - knowing how to space crops will ensure that appropriate amount of seed is purchased.
1)History – It is a good idea to keep a garden journal to record broad seasonal trends. If there are any records from the past look back at them and see what varieties were used and what were the successes and failures. This can save a lot of time and money if a specific crop or variety consistently does or does not perform in the garden.
2)Know Thy Self – For many years I grew peppers. They grew beautifully and I would harvest them and never use them. It was only after several years and I decided that I didn’t actually like peppers and stopped growing them. Grow only things that you KNOW you will use. If you only use three peppers a year it is cheaper to buy them from the grocery store.
3)Seeds v. Transplants – If you have a large garden or a crop that can be sown multiple times (greens or onions for example) it is more economical to buy seeds. If you have a small garden or only require several individual plants (for example tomatoes, peppers), transplants may be a better option. Dividing up which plants will be purchased as seed and which will be purchased as transplants will help keep costs down and streamline the gardening process.
4)Have Fun! – This might sound trite however a garden should be fun. A personal rule I have is to try something new every year – a new vegetable, a new flower, a new variety. Something new and fresh to keep me interested and engaged; it has lead to some great discoveries.
Tuesday, November 16, 2010
Bulbous Beauty
What is your favorite flower? For over twenty years that place in my heart has been dominated by tulips and daffodils. I am enamored with the simple elegance and vibrant colors of tulips. While sturdy daffodils shake-off the winter cold for their perennial appearance.
Tulips are a garden classic, large vibrant blooms are impossible to resist. Tulips should be treated like an annual – as they rarely produce flowers in the second year or beyond. Species tulips (varieties that have not been heavily hybridized and are closer to their wild ancestors) tend to flower more reliably. They are diminutive in size and some types have a wonderful fragrance.
I must admit that with time daffodils have pulled ahead in the race for my heart. They are truly perennial producing effervescent flowers year-after-year. Many of the smaller varieties are fragrant including the intoxicatingly fragrant Cheerfulness-type double daffodils.
Crocus is another type of spring flowering bulb that I adore. Crocus is short and robust. They are the little Napoleons of the bulb world, small in stature but proud and loyal, they will salute you for years to come with their steadfast colors.
Hyacinths are a powerhouse of fragrance. They too should be treated as annuals. However I cannot resist the urge of planting up a pot of them every year to set by the front door. For a hyacinth that has staying power try grape hyacinths. They are not fragrant but are very hardy little perennials that require no input for outstanding performance. In addition they can tolerate a wide variety of difficult sites including shade and dry soils. They are deer resistant too.
Planting in the Ground
If planting in the ground choose a site with loose well-drained soil and the appropriate light for the specific type of bulb. If you have poor soil (clay or sand) add a high quality compost. Dig a hole to the appropriate depth (listed on the package). Throw some Bone Meal or Bulb Fertilizer in the bottom of the hole and scratch it around. Place the bulb on top, pointy end up (bulbs point to the sky) cover with the soil-compost mix.
Where squirrels or moles are prevalent consider putting bulbs in a wire mesh cube or adding crushed oyster shells (available at any feed store) at planting. Digging animals don’t like the feel of the shells and stop digging. Deer can be a nuisance too, it is best to stick to deer resistant types (denoted DR in side column) if you have deer in the area.
Potting Bulbs
Spring bulb displays in pots are the best way to maximize impact. Bulbs bloom for a very specific time so it’s best to combine them for a season-long display of color – as one fades another is just opening.
All bulbs are divided into early, mid or late blooming. Choose a type of bulb from each category. Once the bulbs have been chosen, pot them in a broad, shallow pot (though any pot with drainage holes will do). Using a high quality potting soil add a layer of soil to the bottom of the pot and plant the bulbs to their approximate depth layering soil and bulbs as necessary. Bulbs may be placed as close as possible without actually touching their neighbors - pack them in tight. Cover the bulbs with soil and add Bulb Fertilizer or Bone Meal at the last layer. Winter interest plants can be planted on top or mulch can be added. Place the pot outdoors where rain can water it and wait. You will have a spring-long display of vibrant color.
Bulbs are an easy way to bring color and drama to your landscape. The purest and most sublime joy of my life occurs in spring when these bulbs come to life. Their vivid colors whisper to one’s soul, do not abandon hope, spring is coming, so plant some bulbous beauty now.
Tulips are a garden classic, large vibrant blooms are impossible to resist. Tulips should be treated like an annual – as they rarely produce flowers in the second year or beyond. Species tulips (varieties that have not been heavily hybridized and are closer to their wild ancestors) tend to flower more reliably. They are diminutive in size and some types have a wonderful fragrance.
I must admit that with time daffodils have pulled ahead in the race for my heart. They are truly perennial producing effervescent flowers year-after-year. Many of the smaller varieties are fragrant including the intoxicatingly fragrant Cheerfulness-type double daffodils.
Crocus is another type of spring flowering bulb that I adore. Crocus is short and robust. They are the little Napoleons of the bulb world, small in stature but proud and loyal, they will salute you for years to come with their steadfast colors.
Hyacinths are a powerhouse of fragrance. They too should be treated as annuals. However I cannot resist the urge of planting up a pot of them every year to set by the front door. For a hyacinth that has staying power try grape hyacinths. They are not fragrant but are very hardy little perennials that require no input for outstanding performance. In addition they can tolerate a wide variety of difficult sites including shade and dry soils. They are deer resistant too.
Planting in the Ground
If planting in the ground choose a site with loose well-drained soil and the appropriate light for the specific type of bulb. If you have poor soil (clay or sand) add a high quality compost. Dig a hole to the appropriate depth (listed on the package). Throw some Bone Meal or Bulb Fertilizer in the bottom of the hole and scratch it around. Place the bulb on top, pointy end up (bulbs point to the sky) cover with the soil-compost mix.
Where squirrels or moles are prevalent consider putting bulbs in a wire mesh cube or adding crushed oyster shells (available at any feed store) at planting. Digging animals don’t like the feel of the shells and stop digging. Deer can be a nuisance too, it is best to stick to deer resistant types (denoted DR in side column) if you have deer in the area.
Potting Bulbs
Spring bulb displays in pots are the best way to maximize impact. Bulbs bloom for a very specific time so it’s best to combine them for a season-long display of color – as one fades another is just opening.
All bulbs are divided into early, mid or late blooming. Choose a type of bulb from each category. Once the bulbs have been chosen, pot them in a broad, shallow pot (though any pot with drainage holes will do). Using a high quality potting soil add a layer of soil to the bottom of the pot and plant the bulbs to their approximate depth layering soil and bulbs as necessary. Bulbs may be placed as close as possible without actually touching their neighbors - pack them in tight. Cover the bulbs with soil and add Bulb Fertilizer or Bone Meal at the last layer. Winter interest plants can be planted on top or mulch can be added. Place the pot outdoors where rain can water it and wait. You will have a spring-long display of vibrant color.
Bulbs are an easy way to bring color and drama to your landscape. The purest and most sublime joy of my life occurs in spring when these bulbs come to life. Their vivid colors whisper to one’s soul, do not abandon hope, spring is coming, so plant some bulbous beauty now.
Sunday, October 24, 2010
Bounty Hunter
The closest that many of us come to foraging for our own food is harvesting the garden or going to the grocery store. The extent of which might entail a long search for a mystery ingredient in a new recipe or ruthlessly seeking out your favorite food which the grocery store has conveniently decided to move across the store. Either way it is nothing like the search for food our ancestors went through on a regular basis to sustain themselves.
Fall is an excellent time to tap into your ancestral roots and forage in the forests and fields. There are many food items that can be found: berries, leaves, nuts, seaweed, and mushrooms. In addition it is an inexpensive way to have fun and add gourmet quality ingredients like chanterelles, truffles and hazelnuts to your meals.
Foraging is simple – start with a regional guide that has pictures and concise descriptions of edibles. A guide that specifies habitat, where to find a specific plant and season of harvest is very helpful especially for a novice.
Now that you have a guide and a general destination, it’s time to pack-up the family and have an adventure. Pack a bag with a few paper and Ziploc bags, sturdier containers (like Tupperware or mason jars), a pocket knife or pruners, an edible plant guide and a general plant guide (to help with identification).
If you or your children have food allergies you can still forage, however instead of consuming what you’ve found bring along paper and crayons and have them draw the plant or the creatures that might eat it.
Getting to Know You
When I was younger I had a friend who had a plum orchard and every summer they would send me home laden with tasty perfectly ripe plums. What is the moral of this story? – get to know you acquaintances and neighbors. Even one fruit or nut tree can leave its owner with an unmanageably large harvest and most are happy to give away their harvest than watch it slowly rot. It is a great way to share the bounty while connecting with your community.
You don’t have to travel far either, many neighborhoods and parks host fruit and nut trees. Always be respectful, ask private property owners before you harvest. If you look around you may start to notice that local public parks have a smattering of fruit and nut trees. Once you start looking around you may be surprised at just how many bountiful trees and shrubs are in your area.
Apples, pears, persimmons, quince, hazelnuts and black walnuts are all harvestable in fall so ask around.
Safety
Knowing what to look for takes time. If you are unsure about the identity of a plant or mushroom don’t eat it. Many species that are harmful boast it quite clearly with vibrant or unusual coloration however this isn’t a failsafe way to forage. In addition, state and local parks and nature centers do occasionally offer foraging classes so do a little research. Classes will give you basic know-how and confidence for future foraging. As long as you use common sense it is unlikely that you will come to harm.
Several years ago I was picking berries in a hedge for pie. Several days later an itchy rash appeared – poison oak. Be sure that everyone in your family can identify poison oak or ivy if they occur in your area.
It takes time to recognize plants, but once you’ve got it you’ll never pass by a thimbleberry or miner’s lettuce without a quick taste. So go experience the thrill of finding your own food - go be a Bounty Hunter!
Fall is an excellent time to tap into your ancestral roots and forage in the forests and fields. There are many food items that can be found: berries, leaves, nuts, seaweed, and mushrooms. In addition it is an inexpensive way to have fun and add gourmet quality ingredients like chanterelles, truffles and hazelnuts to your meals.
Foraging is simple – start with a regional guide that has pictures and concise descriptions of edibles. A guide that specifies habitat, where to find a specific plant and season of harvest is very helpful especially for a novice.
Now that you have a guide and a general destination, it’s time to pack-up the family and have an adventure. Pack a bag with a few paper and Ziploc bags, sturdier containers (like Tupperware or mason jars), a pocket knife or pruners, an edible plant guide and a general plant guide (to help with identification).
If you or your children have food allergies you can still forage, however instead of consuming what you’ve found bring along paper and crayons and have them draw the plant or the creatures that might eat it.
Getting to Know You
When I was younger I had a friend who had a plum orchard and every summer they would send me home laden with tasty perfectly ripe plums. What is the moral of this story? – get to know you acquaintances and neighbors. Even one fruit or nut tree can leave its owner with an unmanageably large harvest and most are happy to give away their harvest than watch it slowly rot. It is a great way to share the bounty while connecting with your community.
You don’t have to travel far either, many neighborhoods and parks host fruit and nut trees. Always be respectful, ask private property owners before you harvest. If you look around you may start to notice that local public parks have a smattering of fruit and nut trees. Once you start looking around you may be surprised at just how many bountiful trees and shrubs are in your area.
Apples, pears, persimmons, quince, hazelnuts and black walnuts are all harvestable in fall so ask around.
Safety
Knowing what to look for takes time. If you are unsure about the identity of a plant or mushroom don’t eat it. Many species that are harmful boast it quite clearly with vibrant or unusual coloration however this isn’t a failsafe way to forage. In addition, state and local parks and nature centers do occasionally offer foraging classes so do a little research. Classes will give you basic know-how and confidence for future foraging. As long as you use common sense it is unlikely that you will come to harm.
Several years ago I was picking berries in a hedge for pie. Several days later an itchy rash appeared – poison oak. Be sure that everyone in your family can identify poison oak or ivy if they occur in your area.
It takes time to recognize plants, but once you’ve got it you’ll never pass by a thimbleberry or miner’s lettuce without a quick taste. So go experience the thrill of finding your own food - go be a Bounty Hunter!
Thursday, September 9, 2010
Mum's the Word - Keeping Mums at their best
It is the season for chrysanthemums (mums) and asters. These cheery decorative plants are great color for the fall and beyond. Here are some helpful tips to keep them looking their best.
1) Deadhead - cut-off spent blooms at the nearest leaf junction. This encourages re-bloom.
2) Find Cover - The enemy of mum & aster flowers is rain, so if possible keep them under cover, for example under an eave, however it is also important to give them as much light as possible - both enjoy full sun.
3) Fertilize - While it's still relatively warm (Sept. and in to Oct.) fertilize once every two weeks or so. When it gets colder fertilize once a month. This will encourage flower production.
How long a mum or aster will look good varies from year to year on weather, but I have managed in the past to keep mine blooming and looking great well into January. Neither asters nor mums have to be "throw-away" plants the Chrysanthemums and Asters sold in most nurseries for outdoor use are hardy to -30 and -40 degrees F respectively. Once they're totally done blooming they can be planted in to the landscape if you desire. At least in western Oregon what kills them is being soggy, so allow them to dry-out a bit in between waterings.
1) Deadhead - cut-off spent blooms at the nearest leaf junction. This encourages re-bloom.
2) Find Cover - The enemy of mum & aster flowers is rain, so if possible keep them under cover, for example under an eave, however it is also important to give them as much light as possible - both enjoy full sun.
3) Fertilize - While it's still relatively warm (Sept. and in to Oct.) fertilize once every two weeks or so. When it gets colder fertilize once a month. This will encourage flower production.
How long a mum or aster will look good varies from year to year on weather, but I have managed in the past to keep mine blooming and looking great well into January. Neither asters nor mums have to be "throw-away" plants the Chrysanthemums and Asters sold in most nurseries for outdoor use are hardy to -30 and -40 degrees F respectively. Once they're totally done blooming they can be planted in to the landscape if you desire. At least in western Oregon what kills them is being soggy, so allow them to dry-out a bit in between waterings.
Friday, August 20, 2010
Aphid Alert
Perhaps most common garden pest is the aphid. They are a small insect with mouth-parts the pierce plants and suck-out their nutrient-rich juices. Aphids vary in color they can be black, brown, green or white. They can also vary in size; mature well-fed specimens are about twice as large as immature aphids. They tend to cluster around the tender young tips of plants.
Your number one defense against aphids and all garden pests and diseases is a healthy plant. Plants that are strong, vigorous and healthy can resist attack much more effectively. What makes a healthy plant? Adequate water - when plants dry-out or are too wet they can become weakened. Try to keep the soil consistently moist but not wet this ensures the plant will never be stressed by water. Stick your finger one-knuckle deep into the soil it should be moist but not wet.
Adequate food - often chemical fertilizers make plants serge into growth, they send out LOTS of weak growth which aphids adore, it's better to use a gentler balanced organic fertilizer that will still produce lots of growth but support that growth with the nutrients necessary for long-term strength and vigor.
If you already have aphids there are several solutions. The gentlest way is to buy a packet of Ladybugs at your local independent Garden Center. They usually cost around $10 for about 1,000 ladybugs. Let the ladybugs go at dusk so they hunker down in your garden and they will devour aphids.
If you want a more instant solution using sharp water flow (skip this step if plants are especially tender or weak) spray-off as many aphids as possible, making sure you're not spreading them on to other garden plants. Following the package instructions spray with an Insect Killing Soap. You can also make your own with a gentle, pure, liquid soap like Liquid Palmolive. You want to make direct contact with the aphids because the soap works by plugging their mouth-parts so you have to spray it ON the insects (please also note that this means you cannot use insect killing soap as a preventative measure). Insect Killing Soap usually takes multiple applications several days apart to kill all the generations that were on the plant. However, if you are consistent, you will be able to keep the population under control.
Aphids rarely kill plants, however they can weaken them and reduce yields. In addition, aphids can carry viruses and bacteria that can cause much more serious problems down the line.
Your number one defense against aphids and all garden pests and diseases is a healthy plant. Plants that are strong, vigorous and healthy can resist attack much more effectively. What makes a healthy plant? Adequate water - when plants dry-out or are too wet they can become weakened. Try to keep the soil consistently moist but not wet this ensures the plant will never be stressed by water. Stick your finger one-knuckle deep into the soil it should be moist but not wet.
Adequate food - often chemical fertilizers make plants serge into growth, they send out LOTS of weak growth which aphids adore, it's better to use a gentler balanced organic fertilizer that will still produce lots of growth but support that growth with the nutrients necessary for long-term strength and vigor.
If you already have aphids there are several solutions. The gentlest way is to buy a packet of Ladybugs at your local independent Garden Center. They usually cost around $10 for about 1,000 ladybugs. Let the ladybugs go at dusk so they hunker down in your garden and they will devour aphids.
If you want a more instant solution using sharp water flow (skip this step if plants are especially tender or weak) spray-off as many aphids as possible, making sure you're not spreading them on to other garden plants. Following the package instructions spray with an Insect Killing Soap. You can also make your own with a gentle, pure, liquid soap like Liquid Palmolive. You want to make direct contact with the aphids because the soap works by plugging their mouth-parts so you have to spray it ON the insects (please also note that this means you cannot use insect killing soap as a preventative measure). Insect Killing Soap usually takes multiple applications several days apart to kill all the generations that were on the plant. However, if you are consistent, you will be able to keep the population under control.
Aphids rarely kill plants, however they can weaken them and reduce yields. In addition, aphids can carry viruses and bacteria that can cause much more serious problems down the line.
Monday, July 26, 2010
Ageless Beauty
Gardens are like a fine wine - they only improve with time. America has many gardens scattered over its landscape however in my experience they lack age - that indefinable luster that only time can bring to a garden. For creatures time seems only to wear upon us; in a garden time adds complexity and richness. I have had the privilege of going to Kew Gardens and Chelsea Physic Garden. Both of which celebrate their age with a glow of pride, their austere serenity has left me in awe and craving more.
Kew has several large conservatories along with grounds that could take a day to fully absorb. Chelsea Physic Garden is a small walled garden with several small conservatories and a more medical and botanical approach.
In fact most of the public parks in the area feature mixed borders with shrubs, perennials, and annuals interspersed in colorful, many include water features like ponds and fountains.
For twenty years my greatest wish has been to go to England. As I learned about gardening my interest only grew. For me I feel that England is a mecca of gardening and I am happy to praise it's public and private gardens for their timeless beauty.
Kew has several large conservatories along with grounds that could take a day to fully absorb. Chelsea Physic Garden is a small walled garden with several small conservatories and a more medical and botanical approach.
In fact most of the public parks in the area feature mixed borders with shrubs, perennials, and annuals interspersed in colorful, many include water features like ponds and fountains.
For twenty years my greatest wish has been to go to England. As I learned about gardening my interest only grew. For me I feel that England is a mecca of gardening and I am happy to praise it's public and private gardens for their timeless beauty.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)