What is your favorite flower? For over twenty years that place in my heart has been dominated by tulips and daffodils. I am enamored with the simple elegance and vibrant colors of tulips. While sturdy daffodils shake-off the winter cold for their perennial appearance.
Tulips are a garden classic, large vibrant blooms are impossible to resist. Tulips should be treated like an annual – as they rarely produce flowers in the second year or beyond. Species tulips (varieties that have not been heavily hybridized and are closer to their wild ancestors) tend to flower more reliably. They are diminutive in size and some types have a wonderful fragrance.
I must admit that with time daffodils have pulled ahead in the race for my heart. They are truly perennial producing effervescent flowers year-after-year. Many of the smaller varieties are fragrant including the intoxicatingly fragrant Cheerfulness-type double daffodils.
Crocus is another type of spring flowering bulb that I adore. Crocus is short and robust. They are the little Napoleons of the bulb world, small in stature but proud and loyal, they will salute you for years to come with their steadfast colors.
Hyacinths are a powerhouse of fragrance. They too should be treated as annuals. However I cannot resist the urge of planting up a pot of them every year to set by the front door. For a hyacinth that has staying power try grape hyacinths. They are not fragrant but are very hardy little perennials that require no input for outstanding performance. In addition they can tolerate a wide variety of difficult sites including shade and dry soils. They are deer resistant too.
Planting in the Ground
If planting in the ground choose a site with loose well-drained soil and the appropriate light for the specific type of bulb. If you have poor soil (clay or sand) add a high quality compost. Dig a hole to the appropriate depth (listed on the package). Throw some Bone Meal or Bulb Fertilizer in the bottom of the hole and scratch it around. Place the bulb on top, pointy end up (bulbs point to the sky) cover with the soil-compost mix.
Where squirrels or moles are prevalent consider putting bulbs in a wire mesh cube or adding crushed oyster shells (available at any feed store) at planting. Digging animals don’t like the feel of the shells and stop digging. Deer can be a nuisance too, it is best to stick to deer resistant types (denoted DR in side column) if you have deer in the area.
Potting Bulbs
Spring bulb displays in pots are the best way to maximize impact. Bulbs bloom for a very specific time so it’s best to combine them for a season-long display of color – as one fades another is just opening.
All bulbs are divided into early, mid or late blooming. Choose a type of bulb from each category. Once the bulbs have been chosen, pot them in a broad, shallow pot (though any pot with drainage holes will do). Using a high quality potting soil add a layer of soil to the bottom of the pot and plant the bulbs to their approximate depth layering soil and bulbs as necessary. Bulbs may be placed as close as possible without actually touching their neighbors - pack them in tight. Cover the bulbs with soil and add Bulb Fertilizer or Bone Meal at the last layer. Winter interest plants can be planted on top or mulch can be added. Place the pot outdoors where rain can water it and wait. You will have a spring-long display of vibrant color.
Bulbs are an easy way to bring color and drama to your landscape. The purest and most sublime joy of my life occurs in spring when these bulbs come to life. Their vivid colors whisper to one’s soul, do not abandon hope, spring is coming, so plant some bulbous beauty now.
Tuesday, November 16, 2010
Sunday, October 24, 2010
Bounty Hunter
The closest that many of us come to foraging for our own food is harvesting the garden or going to the grocery store. The extent of which might entail a long search for a mystery ingredient in a new recipe or ruthlessly seeking out your favorite food which the grocery store has conveniently decided to move across the store. Either way it is nothing like the search for food our ancestors went through on a regular basis to sustain themselves.
Fall is an excellent time to tap into your ancestral roots and forage in the forests and fields. There are many food items that can be found: berries, leaves, nuts, seaweed, and mushrooms. In addition it is an inexpensive way to have fun and add gourmet quality ingredients like chanterelles, truffles and hazelnuts to your meals.
Foraging is simple – start with a regional guide that has pictures and concise descriptions of edibles. A guide that specifies habitat, where to find a specific plant and season of harvest is very helpful especially for a novice.
Now that you have a guide and a general destination, it’s time to pack-up the family and have an adventure. Pack a bag with a few paper and Ziploc bags, sturdier containers (like Tupperware or mason jars), a pocket knife or pruners, an edible plant guide and a general plant guide (to help with identification).
If you or your children have food allergies you can still forage, however instead of consuming what you’ve found bring along paper and crayons and have them draw the plant or the creatures that might eat it.
Getting to Know You
When I was younger I had a friend who had a plum orchard and every summer they would send me home laden with tasty perfectly ripe plums. What is the moral of this story? – get to know you acquaintances and neighbors. Even one fruit or nut tree can leave its owner with an unmanageably large harvest and most are happy to give away their harvest than watch it slowly rot. It is a great way to share the bounty while connecting with your community.
You don’t have to travel far either, many neighborhoods and parks host fruit and nut trees. Always be respectful, ask private property owners before you harvest. If you look around you may start to notice that local public parks have a smattering of fruit and nut trees. Once you start looking around you may be surprised at just how many bountiful trees and shrubs are in your area.
Apples, pears, persimmons, quince, hazelnuts and black walnuts are all harvestable in fall so ask around.
Safety
Knowing what to look for takes time. If you are unsure about the identity of a plant or mushroom don’t eat it. Many species that are harmful boast it quite clearly with vibrant or unusual coloration however this isn’t a failsafe way to forage. In addition, state and local parks and nature centers do occasionally offer foraging classes so do a little research. Classes will give you basic know-how and confidence for future foraging. As long as you use common sense it is unlikely that you will come to harm.
Several years ago I was picking berries in a hedge for pie. Several days later an itchy rash appeared – poison oak. Be sure that everyone in your family can identify poison oak or ivy if they occur in your area.
It takes time to recognize plants, but once you’ve got it you’ll never pass by a thimbleberry or miner’s lettuce without a quick taste. So go experience the thrill of finding your own food - go be a Bounty Hunter!
Fall is an excellent time to tap into your ancestral roots and forage in the forests and fields. There are many food items that can be found: berries, leaves, nuts, seaweed, and mushrooms. In addition it is an inexpensive way to have fun and add gourmet quality ingredients like chanterelles, truffles and hazelnuts to your meals.
Foraging is simple – start with a regional guide that has pictures and concise descriptions of edibles. A guide that specifies habitat, where to find a specific plant and season of harvest is very helpful especially for a novice.
Now that you have a guide and a general destination, it’s time to pack-up the family and have an adventure. Pack a bag with a few paper and Ziploc bags, sturdier containers (like Tupperware or mason jars), a pocket knife or pruners, an edible plant guide and a general plant guide (to help with identification).
If you or your children have food allergies you can still forage, however instead of consuming what you’ve found bring along paper and crayons and have them draw the plant or the creatures that might eat it.
Getting to Know You
When I was younger I had a friend who had a plum orchard and every summer they would send me home laden with tasty perfectly ripe plums. What is the moral of this story? – get to know you acquaintances and neighbors. Even one fruit or nut tree can leave its owner with an unmanageably large harvest and most are happy to give away their harvest than watch it slowly rot. It is a great way to share the bounty while connecting with your community.
You don’t have to travel far either, many neighborhoods and parks host fruit and nut trees. Always be respectful, ask private property owners before you harvest. If you look around you may start to notice that local public parks have a smattering of fruit and nut trees. Once you start looking around you may be surprised at just how many bountiful trees and shrubs are in your area.
Apples, pears, persimmons, quince, hazelnuts and black walnuts are all harvestable in fall so ask around.
Safety
Knowing what to look for takes time. If you are unsure about the identity of a plant or mushroom don’t eat it. Many species that are harmful boast it quite clearly with vibrant or unusual coloration however this isn’t a failsafe way to forage. In addition, state and local parks and nature centers do occasionally offer foraging classes so do a little research. Classes will give you basic know-how and confidence for future foraging. As long as you use common sense it is unlikely that you will come to harm.
Several years ago I was picking berries in a hedge for pie. Several days later an itchy rash appeared – poison oak. Be sure that everyone in your family can identify poison oak or ivy if they occur in your area.
It takes time to recognize plants, but once you’ve got it you’ll never pass by a thimbleberry or miner’s lettuce without a quick taste. So go experience the thrill of finding your own food - go be a Bounty Hunter!
Thursday, September 9, 2010
Mum's the Word - Keeping Mums at their best
It is the season for chrysanthemums (mums) and asters. These cheery decorative plants are great color for the fall and beyond. Here are some helpful tips to keep them looking their best.
1) Deadhead - cut-off spent blooms at the nearest leaf junction. This encourages re-bloom.
2) Find Cover - The enemy of mum & aster flowers is rain, so if possible keep them under cover, for example under an eave, however it is also important to give them as much light as possible - both enjoy full sun.
3) Fertilize - While it's still relatively warm (Sept. and in to Oct.) fertilize once every two weeks or so. When it gets colder fertilize once a month. This will encourage flower production.
How long a mum or aster will look good varies from year to year on weather, but I have managed in the past to keep mine blooming and looking great well into January. Neither asters nor mums have to be "throw-away" plants the Chrysanthemums and Asters sold in most nurseries for outdoor use are hardy to -30 and -40 degrees F respectively. Once they're totally done blooming they can be planted in to the landscape if you desire. At least in western Oregon what kills them is being soggy, so allow them to dry-out a bit in between waterings.
1) Deadhead - cut-off spent blooms at the nearest leaf junction. This encourages re-bloom.
2) Find Cover - The enemy of mum & aster flowers is rain, so if possible keep them under cover, for example under an eave, however it is also important to give them as much light as possible - both enjoy full sun.
3) Fertilize - While it's still relatively warm (Sept. and in to Oct.) fertilize once every two weeks or so. When it gets colder fertilize once a month. This will encourage flower production.
How long a mum or aster will look good varies from year to year on weather, but I have managed in the past to keep mine blooming and looking great well into January. Neither asters nor mums have to be "throw-away" plants the Chrysanthemums and Asters sold in most nurseries for outdoor use are hardy to -30 and -40 degrees F respectively. Once they're totally done blooming they can be planted in to the landscape if you desire. At least in western Oregon what kills them is being soggy, so allow them to dry-out a bit in between waterings.
Friday, August 20, 2010
Aphid Alert
Perhaps most common garden pest is the aphid. They are a small insect with mouth-parts the pierce plants and suck-out their nutrient-rich juices. Aphids vary in color they can be black, brown, green or white. They can also vary in size; mature well-fed specimens are about twice as large as immature aphids. They tend to cluster around the tender young tips of plants.
Your number one defense against aphids and all garden pests and diseases is a healthy plant. Plants that are strong, vigorous and healthy can resist attack much more effectively. What makes a healthy plant? Adequate water - when plants dry-out or are too wet they can become weakened. Try to keep the soil consistently moist but not wet this ensures the plant will never be stressed by water. Stick your finger one-knuckle deep into the soil it should be moist but not wet.
Adequate food - often chemical fertilizers make plants serge into growth, they send out LOTS of weak growth which aphids adore, it's better to use a gentler balanced organic fertilizer that will still produce lots of growth but support that growth with the nutrients necessary for long-term strength and vigor.
If you already have aphids there are several solutions. The gentlest way is to buy a packet of Ladybugs at your local independent Garden Center. They usually cost around $10 for about 1,000 ladybugs. Let the ladybugs go at dusk so they hunker down in your garden and they will devour aphids.
If you want a more instant solution using sharp water flow (skip this step if plants are especially tender or weak) spray-off as many aphids as possible, making sure you're not spreading them on to other garden plants. Following the package instructions spray with an Insect Killing Soap. You can also make your own with a gentle, pure, liquid soap like Liquid Palmolive. You want to make direct contact with the aphids because the soap works by plugging their mouth-parts so you have to spray it ON the insects (please also note that this means you cannot use insect killing soap as a preventative measure). Insect Killing Soap usually takes multiple applications several days apart to kill all the generations that were on the plant. However, if you are consistent, you will be able to keep the population under control.
Aphids rarely kill plants, however they can weaken them and reduce yields. In addition, aphids can carry viruses and bacteria that can cause much more serious problems down the line.
Your number one defense against aphids and all garden pests and diseases is a healthy plant. Plants that are strong, vigorous and healthy can resist attack much more effectively. What makes a healthy plant? Adequate water - when plants dry-out or are too wet they can become weakened. Try to keep the soil consistently moist but not wet this ensures the plant will never be stressed by water. Stick your finger one-knuckle deep into the soil it should be moist but not wet.
Adequate food - often chemical fertilizers make plants serge into growth, they send out LOTS of weak growth which aphids adore, it's better to use a gentler balanced organic fertilizer that will still produce lots of growth but support that growth with the nutrients necessary for long-term strength and vigor.
If you already have aphids there are several solutions. The gentlest way is to buy a packet of Ladybugs at your local independent Garden Center. They usually cost around $10 for about 1,000 ladybugs. Let the ladybugs go at dusk so they hunker down in your garden and they will devour aphids.
If you want a more instant solution using sharp water flow (skip this step if plants are especially tender or weak) spray-off as many aphids as possible, making sure you're not spreading them on to other garden plants. Following the package instructions spray with an Insect Killing Soap. You can also make your own with a gentle, pure, liquid soap like Liquid Palmolive. You want to make direct contact with the aphids because the soap works by plugging their mouth-parts so you have to spray it ON the insects (please also note that this means you cannot use insect killing soap as a preventative measure). Insect Killing Soap usually takes multiple applications several days apart to kill all the generations that were on the plant. However, if you are consistent, you will be able to keep the population under control.
Aphids rarely kill plants, however they can weaken them and reduce yields. In addition, aphids can carry viruses and bacteria that can cause much more serious problems down the line.
Monday, July 26, 2010
Ageless Beauty
Gardens are like a fine wine - they only improve with time. America has many gardens scattered over its landscape however in my experience they lack age - that indefinable luster that only time can bring to a garden. For creatures time seems only to wear upon us; in a garden time adds complexity and richness. I have had the privilege of going to Kew Gardens and Chelsea Physic Garden. Both of which celebrate their age with a glow of pride, their austere serenity has left me in awe and craving more.
Kew has several large conservatories along with grounds that could take a day to fully absorb. Chelsea Physic Garden is a small walled garden with several small conservatories and a more medical and botanical approach.
In fact most of the public parks in the area feature mixed borders with shrubs, perennials, and annuals interspersed in colorful, many include water features like ponds and fountains.
For twenty years my greatest wish has been to go to England. As I learned about gardening my interest only grew. For me I feel that England is a mecca of gardening and I am happy to praise it's public and private gardens for their timeless beauty.
Kew has several large conservatories along with grounds that could take a day to fully absorb. Chelsea Physic Garden is a small walled garden with several small conservatories and a more medical and botanical approach.
In fact most of the public parks in the area feature mixed borders with shrubs, perennials, and annuals interspersed in colorful, many include water features like ponds and fountains.
For twenty years my greatest wish has been to go to England. As I learned about gardening my interest only grew. For me I feel that England is a mecca of gardening and I am happy to praise it's public and private gardens for their timeless beauty.
Monday, July 12, 2010
Food for Thought
Fertilizers are a key component to any garden. They are the building blocks that your plants need to grow and reproduce.
All fertilizer packages list three numbers, for example 5-5-5 they are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium respectively or NPK. Nitrogen is for leaf growth, phosphorus is for root and flower development and potassium is for maturation and development. NPK are the three major nutrients required for plant growth. It is important to have some of all three ingredients in order to complete a plant life cycle.
Today you generally have two choices: organic or conventional fertilizers. Organic fertilizers are generally derived from animals (e.g. manure, feather meal) or from plants (e.g. alfalfa meal, soybean meal). Whereas conventional fertilizer are man-made. I like to know where my fertilizers come from so I use organic fertilizer because it is clear what sources the nutrients came from. Conventional fertilizer generally takes a lot of energy to produce and is usually in the form of a salt - which isn't the best for the long-term health of the soil (think of the Romans "salting the earth" of their enemies).
I use Bat Guano at planting and liberally about once a month during the growing season. I also fertilize once every two weeks with a liquid organic fertilizer (one that lists its constituents). Finally, twice a year, in between seasonal plantings, I deeply amend with a quality compost and Soybean Meal. I like soybean meal because it is a really nice slow release fertilizer that will feed for a long time. I like Bat Guano because it is a quick source of nutrients. However, there are many blends so I have to be careful to get one that is balanced.
There are many other nutrients that are required in MUCH smaller amounts which are generally found in adequate amounts in the soil. Their deficiency is rare and adding them liberally can lead to even greater problems then a deficiency. However, if you're concerned about a lack of micro-nutrients (so-called because they are needed in VERY SMALL amounts) try a seaweed based fertilizer.
All fertilizer packages list three numbers, for example 5-5-5 they are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium respectively or NPK. Nitrogen is for leaf growth, phosphorus is for root and flower development and potassium is for maturation and development. NPK are the three major nutrients required for plant growth. It is important to have some of all three ingredients in order to complete a plant life cycle.
Today you generally have two choices: organic or conventional fertilizers. Organic fertilizers are generally derived from animals (e.g. manure, feather meal) or from plants (e.g. alfalfa meal, soybean meal). Whereas conventional fertilizer are man-made. I like to know where my fertilizers come from so I use organic fertilizer because it is clear what sources the nutrients came from. Conventional fertilizer generally takes a lot of energy to produce and is usually in the form of a salt - which isn't the best for the long-term health of the soil (think of the Romans "salting the earth" of their enemies).
I use Bat Guano at planting and liberally about once a month during the growing season. I also fertilize once every two weeks with a liquid organic fertilizer (one that lists its constituents). Finally, twice a year, in between seasonal plantings, I deeply amend with a quality compost and Soybean Meal. I like soybean meal because it is a really nice slow release fertilizer that will feed for a long time. I like Bat Guano because it is a quick source of nutrients. However, there are many blends so I have to be careful to get one that is balanced.
There are many other nutrients that are required in MUCH smaller amounts which are generally found in adequate amounts in the soil. Their deficiency is rare and adding them liberally can lead to even greater problems then a deficiency. However, if you're concerned about a lack of micro-nutrients (so-called because they are needed in VERY SMALL amounts) try a seaweed based fertilizer.
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Edible Flora
Edible Flowers add flavor and interest to dishes and drinks.For maximum flavor add basil, cilantro or nasturtium flowers. Basil and Cilantro flowers taste similar the herb while Nasturtiums have a zesty peppery flavor that's a great addition to salads or tacos. Onion, Chive and Garlic flowers add gentler onion-flavor.
If you're making a desert try Dianthus, Lavender or Viola. Add the essence of lavender to cookies, teas and drinks then garnish with a piece of lavender. Use edible flowers to decorate cakes with - gently press primrose or viola flowers into the frosting of cakes for instant embellishment.
If you like lighter flavors try the cucumber-like flavor of borage flowers or the calming herbal flavor of chamomile flowers.
If possible harvest flowers in early morning. Put them stem-down in a bowl of water in the fridge until use. When you're ready to use them gently rinse and they're ready for use. Organically grown flowers work best but conventionally grown flowers will work too as long as they have been rinsed well.
If you're making a desert try Dianthus, Lavender or Viola. Add the essence of lavender to cookies, teas and drinks then garnish with a piece of lavender. Use edible flowers to decorate cakes with - gently press primrose or viola flowers into the frosting of cakes for instant embellishment.
If you like lighter flavors try the cucumber-like flavor of borage flowers or the calming herbal flavor of chamomile flowers.
If possible harvest flowers in early morning. Put them stem-down in a bowl of water in the fridge until use. When you're ready to use them gently rinse and they're ready for use. Organically grown flowers work best but conventionally grown flowers will work too as long as they have been rinsed well.
Friday, June 18, 2010
Have You Planted a Tomato Yet?
If you haven't planted a tomato yet there is still time. However, because it is getting late in the season try a short-season tomato. For example 'Willamette' (60 days), 'Stupice' (55 days), or 'Roma' (62 days).
For cherry-type tomatoes 'Sungold' is sweet as candy and takes only 60 days. I was impressed by 'Juilet' which produces tons of oblong red tomatoes in 60 days that were perfect for salads and chunky salsa.
Heirloom-type tomatoes are meaty, very large and come in a variety of colors. They generally take much longer to mature, averaging around 75 to 90 days depending on the variety. It is best that they are planted early as Oregon summers can be unpredictable. If you're feeling courageous and have the space, why not? You may get an amazing delicious surprise!
Plant tomatoes in full sun. At planting it's best to put some granular fertilizer in the hole, then mix it around so it's not directly touching the roots. Lime should also be added to the hole. For both fertilizer and lime always follow package instructions. Fertilizer feeds plants and lime encourages healthy fruit development.
For best results I fertilize with liquid food every two or so weeks. Lime again about a month after flowers appear.
Tomatoes are a very satisfying crop, they tend to be high yielding from little input. Tomatoes are versatile and can be used in a vast array of dishes. So plant one today, in the heat of summer when you have an outrageous barbecue and you can put a fresh thick slice of tomato on your burger you will thank yourself.
Notes - the days mentioned above are days to maturity or days till you get fruit, and are for plants that have been transplanted as starts.
For cherry-type tomatoes 'Sungold' is sweet as candy and takes only 60 days. I was impressed by 'Juilet' which produces tons of oblong red tomatoes in 60 days that were perfect for salads and chunky salsa.
Heirloom-type tomatoes are meaty, very large and come in a variety of colors. They generally take much longer to mature, averaging around 75 to 90 days depending on the variety. It is best that they are planted early as Oregon summers can be unpredictable. If you're feeling courageous and have the space, why not? You may get an amazing delicious surprise!
Plant tomatoes in full sun. At planting it's best to put some granular fertilizer in the hole, then mix it around so it's not directly touching the roots. Lime should also be added to the hole. For both fertilizer and lime always follow package instructions. Fertilizer feeds plants and lime encourages healthy fruit development.
For best results I fertilize with liquid food every two or so weeks. Lime again about a month after flowers appear.
Tomatoes are a very satisfying crop, they tend to be high yielding from little input. Tomatoes are versatile and can be used in a vast array of dishes. So plant one today, in the heat of summer when you have an outrageous barbecue and you can put a fresh thick slice of tomato on your burger you will thank yourself.
Notes - the days mentioned above are days to maturity or days till you get fruit, and are for plants that have been transplanted as starts.
Thursday, June 10, 2010
Peas - A Love Story
Peas are the potato chip of the natural world - light, crunchy and irresistible you can not eat just one. Those of you who hate peas I understand - canned and frozen are at best tolerable however when you crunch into your own homegrown (and possibly organic) peas you will see the light and know what you have been missing.
I had another harvest of peas today and I couldn't help but nibble here and there. I also had some for dinner and only reaffirmed my love for fresh homegrown peas!
I had another harvest of peas today and I couldn't help but nibble here and there. I also had some for dinner and only reaffirmed my love for fresh homegrown peas!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)